It was a day of contrasts starting with a lung busting ascent out of Pennan. The signage claimed 14% but was surely steeper than 1:5 and the head wind didn't help. This hill was closely followed by a 20% hill! I still haven't had to push yet but sometimes travel at a slow walking pace. There were great views back along the coastline and a shepherd' hut caught Sue's eye as a potential place to stay.
The wind remained against us for much of the morning and it was a relief to settled down to the ritual soup and tea in the lighthouse museum tea shop in Fraserburgh. I am glad we made the effort to come out to this prominent shoulder of Scotland. Fraserburh is Europe's largest shellfish port and is an exposed spot, with the sharp turn in the land it feels like a small island.
The lady in the tea shop us told us enthusiastically where the next stage of our journey could be started. We had decided to take the Formartine and Buchan Way which runs on a dismantled railway line from Fraserburgh to Aberdeen and she told us how she had once completed it for charity. We headed out past the great fishing fleets in the harbour and a wild beach with one lone surfer.
The long straight lines carved a gentle path south and the sky cleared to some warm sunshine and lighter winds.
I wonder how many cyclists use these tracks. Two cyclists, who we later met in our B&B, didn't due to the roughness of the surface. Another deterrent is the gates where the line crosses a road. These are simple enough for an unloaded bike but awkward for a fully loaded tourer.
I think these minor niggles are worth putting up with for the peace and space from cars. This railway was closed in 1965 as part of the Beeching cuts, it would be nice to see more railways built but these make fantastic routes across the country for cyclists.
Figures:
Distance:- 48.1 km
Cycle Time:- 4 hours 10 minutes
Average speed:- 11.5 kph
Total Distance:- 3365 km
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