Leiston

3/7/15

Is this Provence? No Sufolk! Blue sky, red roofed villages and avenues of tall Poplars fooled the eye.

We sneaked out of Lowestoft by a set of lovely small lanes but had to endure the impatience of some inconsiderate drivers on the B road to Southwold.

It is thanks to a man we met at Ness Point that we went to Southwold as he told us about the footbridge over the river Blyth to Walberswick, it totally transformed our coastal journey through Suffolk.

Southwold is a delight, the pier had a water driven clock installed by Thames Water which represents the process of recycling water.

On the horizon beyond Southport we could see the white dome of Sizewell nuclear powe station. While part A is being decommissioned, B is in the hands of the French after we sold British Energy to EDF and now Sizewell C is planned for the 2020's and is causing much local controversy.

The town has become a retreat for wealthy Londoners and a beach hut can cost an eye watering sum.

After coffee at Cafe on the Green (on the edge of a putting green ) and an annoying puncture repair, we headed for the harbour on the River Blyth and had an amazing fish platter in a wooden hut owned by Sole Bay Fish Company, in Blackshore.

It must be 40 years since I have been to this part of Sufolk and it feels as if there has been no change, we both sensed this was the seaside of our childhood. Afternoon tea was at the Potter's Wheel next to the village green in Walberswick and then we headed of on a mixture of empty lanes and sandy bridle ways. We have met many DofE groups recently, after we passed a jolly group of Silver Awarders, Sue announced that she would write to head office and ask if she could be given a Gold Award for this venture. I pointed out that none of the days have met the eight hours minimum time commitment so wouldn't qualify! Anyway, I doubt if Tea shops I have visited would qualify as a project title for the purpose of the expedition!

Figures:

Distance:- 47.2 km

Cycle Time:- 3 hours 23 minutes

Average speed:- 13.9 kph

Total Distance:- 4702 km

Lowestoft

2/7/15

The heat of the morning sun got us up early, first stop was the restored barn at Paxham which, of course had a good tea shop. Then a visit to Horsey wind pump which we had last visited by canoe with Joe one October some years ago.

The mill and land were managed by a local hero called Arthur Haslem Dove who took over from his father and the initiation ceremony was to strap him to one of the wind sails for a couple of turns! This, apparently gave him the mill man's sense. I wonder if Sue's initiation to cycling - a spin around the UK has given her the cyclist's sense!

Great Yarmouth was a monster of a town to get through, it has faded as a seaside resort but docks some of the largest cargo ships in the world. We passed through the docks and found the Breakfast Bar with good snacks and wifi for some emergency accommodation booking.

We left Norfolk for Sufolk and our first port of call arriving in Lowestoft was to go to Ness Point and visit the most Easterly bit of mainland, three cardinal points now complete, just South to go!

Lowestoft is a nice town, we stayed at an exceptionally good B&B (Chiltern House) and we enjoyed a great evening view and pub food in the The Jolly Sailors.

Figures:

Distance:- 57.1 km

Cycle Time:- 3 hours 50 minutes

Average speed:- 14.9 kph

Total Distance:- 4655 km

Happisburgh

1/7/15

Camping in the warm and dry is so simple. We packed and left our view of a potato field in bloom and joined the NCN 30 for more quiet inland lanes.

Our first stop was Felbrigg Hall and we were delighted to be able to cycle into the west entrance and leave to the east. All estates should allow cycles to pass through like this- thank you National Trust.

William Frederick Windham, heir to the estate, was slightly eccentric and caused  mayhem by dressing up in various official uniforms. That alone would not be a problem but he then went on to fulfill the role of the uniform causing confusion with  random whistle blowing at railway stations and alarm when arresting women of ill repute while dressed as a policeman.

This National Trust house was really well organised - we were allowed to wander through the rooms at our own pace with a little booklet of key facts about each room - these were then returned to be reused. There was free ice cold water, large portions of ice cream and a fabulous walled garden.

On to Cromer to get fuel for the camping stoves. I always get a cautious look in shops when I ask for methylated spirit and I have to be quick to explain what it is for.

We stopped at Stow mill at Paston which has been lovingly restored. It is increasingly difficult to see windmills as they were when many are being bought up and converted into ensuite bedrooms for expensive holiday lets.

Wherever you look in Norfolk there seems to be a church on the horizon, it is no suprise that it has the highest concentration in the World with 650 medieval churches in the county. We headed for the flint towered church in Happisburgh (what is it about Norfolk and the pronunciation of towns?) and pitched a safe distance from the crumbling cliff with a good view of sea and lighthouse to keep Sue happy!

Figures:

Distance:- 46.4 km

Cycle Time:- 3 hours 26 minutes

Average speed:- 13.5 kph

Total Distance:- 4598 km

Rest Day 16

30/6/15

We woke to blue sky and a hot day ahead. A short ride to Norfolk Wildlife Trust visitor's centre where we had a bacon roll and coffee while looking at a group of Avocet feeding in the marsh pools. The centre's binoculars were better than Sue's pair that must have come from a Christmas cracker.

After a short walk to a hide for a closer look we went on to the Cley Windmill cafe and spent the afternoon in the shady garden looking at maps and planning the next few days.

The smokehouse and deli in Cley both provided excellent ingredients for our meal back at the beautiful camp site.

Figures:

Distance:- 5.7 km !!

Cycle Time:- 0 hours 33 minutes

Average speed:- 10.1 kph

Total Distance:- 4551 km

Cley next the sea

29/6/15

Keeping inland on the smaller lanes mean no traffic but no sea. We reflected on our journey and conclude that this is the best way for us- I just get angry at motorists!

The Sustrans stickers on sign posts are more reliable than arrows that can be rotated by those that want to wind up the tourists. This is a more amusing sign post  that had been tampered with!

Our determined approach to bash down the east coast came to an end today, the hot weather and desire to get back to a bit of sight seeing got the better and we stopped at Horatio Nelson's local pub in Burnham Thorpe for lunch.

Continuing our tourist theme we then squeezed through the gates to Holkham estate for the grand drive to the great hall. I did wonder if Sue had secretly booked us in for the night.

Finally arriving at the coast at Wells, we then braved a bit of main road to Blakeney and our lovely quiet camp site at Cley.

Figures:

Distance:- 56.5 km

Cycle Time:- 3 hours 51 minutes

Average speed:- 14.6 kph

Total Distance:- 4546 km

Ingoldisthorpe (Sandringham)

28/6/15

Getting out of Wisbech was worse than leaving Boston, we completed a 5 km loop without making any progress and it was raining! When we finally did escape we progressed in to Norfolk through the last of the flat land- Sue was suprised to find the route hilly as she had been looking forward to 'flat' Norfolk.

We arrived in King's Lynn via one of the world's largest newsprint paper factorys, the German built plant produces 2000 metres of paper per minute from 100% recycled paper. The historic centre has been preserved well, in about 1220 the Great Ouse was redirected by flood and human hand to King's Lynn (then called Bishop's Lynn) and it is now one of the fastest growing ports. Marriot's Warehouse restaurant was a good place for lunch.

Arriving in Sandringham, we experienced the need for lower gears for a few inclines and enjoyed our first freewheeling for some days. We paid a visit to Royal frequented St Mary Magdalene church with its sumptuous internal decoration and silver pulpit.

We had a warm welcome from Maureen and Alex at Pencob B&B with tea on the lawn in their lovely garden.

We walked 2km to the Rose and Crown in Snettisham for an up-market pub meal (2015 pub of the year). Snettisham is famed for its golden torc (neck ring) and several hordes have been found dating from 75 BC.

Figures:

Distance:- 55.9 km

Cycle Time:- 3 hours 36 minutes

Average speed:- 15.4 kph

Total Distance:- 4489 km

Wisbech

27/6/15

Church spires are the only thing that punctuate the skyline but it is nice to wheel away with minimum effort for a change.

There are plenty of small lanes to avoid the likes of the A17 but Sustrans have done a particularly good job at curving around the Wash on the NCN 1. Occasional glances at the map on my bar bag are all that is needed and the only reason to stop is to regain the circulation in the extremities.

Holbech has the fantastic Caffe Aurora which served amazing coffee and the lime on the cake was more a delicious deluge than a drizzle.

We arrived in Wisbech just in time to visit Peckover Garden but too late to get into the house. This Georgian building was home to a Quaker family for over 150 years, perhaps this has had an effect on the town as it was almost impossible to find a beer after our visit!

Wisbech marks our brief excursion through Cambridgeshire before Norfolk, it seems remarkable that we were in Edinburgh a fortnight ago.

Figures:

Distance:- 62.6 km

Cycle Time:- 3 hours 35 minutes

Average speed:- 17.4 kph

Total Distance:- 4433 km